What do Rheem tankless error codes mean? Full code table

Last reviewed Expert review pending 4 min read 3 sources

Short answer

Rheem tankless codes are two digits or letters. 11 means no flame at ignition, 12 is flame loss, 10, 90 and 99 point to venting, 14 and 15 are overheating, 1L is scale, and 29, 92 and 93 are condensate or neutralizer issues on condensing models. Owners can check gas, power, the inlet filter, vents and the condensate line.

Key facts

  • Rheem codes 10, 13 and 99 are hard lockouts that need a reset procedure after the cause is fixed.[1]
  • Rheem code 15 means the water or heat exchanger reached about 207 F for more than 15 seconds.[1]
  • Codes 29, 92 and 93 apply only to Rheem's high-efficiency condensing tankless models.[1]

Before you use this table

If you smell gas, do not reset anything. Leave on foot, avoid anything that can spark, and call the gas utility and 911 from a safe place[2].

This table paraphrases Rheem's SVC820 tankless gas troubleshooting manual, which covers Rheem and Ruud non-condensing and condensing units, indoor and outdoor[1]. It is our wording, not Rheem's. Newer Rheem platforms may use different codes; check your unit's manual. Rheem technical service is listed at 1-800-432-8373[1].

Rheem tankless code table

CodeWhat it meansSafe homeowner checkCall a pro when
No code, no hot waterDisplay shows the setpoint but water stays coldPower off and on once; clean the inlet water filterStill cold: possible swapped hot and cold lines or a plumbing cross-over
P1Hot water is not being deliveredReset once; clean the inlet filterIt returns
1LScale building up in the heat exchanger; flush to avoid damageSchedule a flush (Rheem sells a flush kit)You prefer not to flush it yourself
03Communication failure between linked units or a manifold controller (multi-unit installs)NoneAlways
05Indoor units: flame rod sensing poor combustion (warning)Check the outside vent terminalIt returns: gas and vent diagnosis
10Vent or blower problem, such as running before venting was installed or low airflow. Hard lockoutCheck the vent terminal for blockageAlways: reset procedure and blower diagnosis
11No flame detected during ignitionGas valve open and gas service onStill no flame: gas pressure, altitude setting, igniter or board
12Flame lit, then was lostConfirm gas supplyIt returns
13Indoor units: poor combustion detected. Hard lockoutNoneAlways
14Overheat limiter trippedStop resettingAlways
15Water or heat exchanger hit about 207 F for over 15 secondsSchedule a flush (scale is a common cause)Always if it returns: sensor and gas checks
16Outlet water above the setpointNoneAlways: outlet sensor or bypass valve
24Remote control buttons held more than 20 secondsRelease the buttons and retryIt repeats: remote may be faulty
29Condensing units: condensate not draining, or heat exchanger too cold for over 3 minutesCheck the condensate line for clogs or iceIt returns: trap, neutralizer or sensor service
31, 32, 33, 34Temperature sensor fault: inlet (31), heat exchanger (32), outlet (33), ambient (34)NoneAlways
35Sensors plugged into the wrong place or poorly connectedNoneAlways
51, 80Gas control valve fault: flame still present after hot water demand stoppedShut off gas to the unitAlways, right away
52Modulating gas valve faultNoneAlways
61, 79Blower fault: wrong speed (61) or motor current fault (79)NoneAlways
65, 66Water volume control valve fault (65) or water bypass valve fault (66)NoneAlways
71Gas control valve inlet solenoid faultNoneAlways
72Flame rod senses flame before ignition (false flame)NoneAlways
76Remote control not talking to the boardNoneAlways
82Control board program chip faultNoneAlways: board replacement
90, 99Vent blockage detected during purge, or the unit ran before the vent was installed. 99 is a hard lockoutCheck the outside vent terminalsAlways for 99; for 90 if it returns
92Condensing units: neutralizer needs service soon; the unit keeps running for nowSchedule serviceBook it before it becomes 93
93Condensing units: will not run until the neutralizer is servicedNoneAlways

Source: Rheem SVC820[1], paraphrased.

Codes to treat as urgent

  • 51 and 80 mean the gas valve may not be closing when it should. Shut off the gas to the unit and call[1].
  • 14, 15 and 16 are temperature problems. Repeated resets can mask a real overheat.
  • 10, 13 and 99 are venting or combustion lockouts. Do not try to bypass them.

"No code, no hot water" is common on new installs

Rheem's manual lists two causes worth knowing before you pay for parts: hot and cold lines swapped at installation, and a plumbing cross-over, such as a failed single-handle faucet cartridge or mixing valve letting cold water into the hot line[1]. A plumber can isolate fixtures to find a cross-over.

Scale and condensate: the maintenance codes

1L appears before scale does damage. 92 warns that the condensate neutralizer needs service, and 93 follows if it is ignored, shutting the unit down[1]. HomeGuide's 2025 range for a tankless flush and descale is $75 to $300[3].

When to call a pro

  • Codes 51 or 80: shut off the gas to the unit first.
  • Any hard lockout (10, 13, 99) or overheat code (14, 15, 16).
  • Any sensor, valve, blower, remote or board code.
  • No hot water with no code after a reset and a clean inlet filter.

More questions

Do these codes apply to Ruud tankless units?

Yes. Rheem's SVC820 service manual covers both Rheem and Ruud gas tankless units. Newer platforms, such as models with EcoNet controls, have their own service manuals and some different codes.

What is a hard lockout?

A lockout that does not clear with a simple power cycle. Rheem treats codes 10, 13 and 99 this way because they involve venting or combustion. A technician fixes the cause and then follows the reset procedure.

Sources

  1. Tankless Gas Troubleshooting Pocket Manual SVC820, Rheem Manufacturing. Accessed 2026-10-06.
  2. What to do if you smell natural gas, CenterPoint Energy. Accessed 2026-10-06.
  3. Hot water heater repair cost (Aug 7, 2025), HomeGuide. Accessed 2026-10-06.

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